Disappearing traces of the 'Son of Dawn'

ID Nugroho
The Jakarta Post, Tulungagung, Fri, 06/06/2008 9:47 AM

The great name of the late Sukarno, one of the two people who proclaimed Indonesia's independence, is inseparable from East Java.

This province -- where Sukarno was born, first became acquainted with political circles and was eventually buried -- holds fond memories of the former first president.

The Jakarta Post visited the province to trace a number of locations where Sukarno, dubbed the "Son of Dawn", spent his days.

At a glance, there is nothing special about the house located on Jl. Pandean IV No. 48, in Surabaya. The sitting room directly faces a four-meter-wide alley. The front wall is dull with the paint peeling off in several parts; water stains on the ceiling from a leaking roof are visible; and the color of the wooden door frames fails to match that of the window frames.

However, it is believed that this is the house in which Sukarno was born on June 6, 1901.

At least two leading biographies about Sukarno, namely Cindy Adams' Soekarno the Spokesperson of the People and Shohirin's The Son of Dawn, refer to Surabaya as the birthplace of Sukarno, who was born Koesno.

"The books were published when Sukarno was still alive and Sukarno did not deny (what was written). So, perhaps, what the books say is true," said Budi Kastowo, the caretaker of the Soekarno Museum and Library in Blitar.

Locals are rather uncertain about where exactly Sukarno was born, because he did not stay long in Surabaya. At the age of two, Koesno moved to Mojokerto with his parents.

Again, there is no exact information about Sukarno's second home. It is often said, however, that it was frequently hit by flashfloods from the Brantas River, which flows past Mojokerto.

It is very likely that the house was located on a low-lying plot of land near the river.

Koesno was often sick as a child and was left in the care of his grandfather, Raden Hardjodikromo, who lived in Tulungagung.

In his grandfather's house and third place of residence (located on Jl. Mayjend Suprapto), Koesno was given traditional Javanese medication. While Koesno was regaining his health, his grandfather was said to have received divine inspiration and soon after changed his grandson's name from Koesno to Karno, and later Soekarno.

Today, the house is not occupied. Locals around the house refer to it as the house of Eyang Hardjo. "That is the house of Eyang (Hardjo), Bung Karno's grandfather," said Joko, a local residents, adding the house had been vacant for quite some time.

"People say Eyang's family is no longer there."

Sukarno went to the Inlander School until he was 11, after which time he continued his studies at the Europe Lagere School in Mojokerto. Four years later, or in 1915, Soekarno joined the Hoogere Burger School (HBS) in Surabaya.

It was when he was in Surabaya that he became acquainted with Haji Oemar Said (HOS) Tjokroaminoto, a boarding house landlord and also the chairman of Syarikat Islam. Tjokroaminoto introduced Sukarno to discourses on nationalism and the spirit of resistance against the Dutch colonial powers.

Sukarno continued his studies at the Technische Hoogeschool, which is now the Bandung Institute of Technology, where he graduated in 1926 and began his activities in politics.

"He was an ordinary boy. Few people know he was born in Surabaya. If I'm not mistaken, he was born in Blitar, right?" said Ashari, 75, a resident of Jl. Pandean, Surabaya.

Ashari told the Post he had once heard a story about Sukarno from his late mother.

"As far as I can remember, my mother once told me a story about Bung Karno. He used to stay in Jl. Pandean along with Ibu Inggit (Sukarno's second wife)," he said.

When Sukarno stayed at the house on Jl. Pandean, Ashari said, the house in front of it was used as the secretariat of Kepanduan Bangsa Indonesia, a youth organization under the Indonesian National Party (PNI), a party that Sukarno founded. Various political activities were said to have been carried out there.

The house now belongs to Jamila, the fourth owner of the house, who lives there together with his wife and elder sister.

HOS Tjokroaminoto's boarding house, where Sukarno stayed when he went to HBS, can still be found on Jl. Peneleh, alley VII, in Surabaya. This simple house, built in the uniquely East Javanese architectural style, is now taken care of by the Surabaya municipality administration and is one of the province's heritage sites.

Budi Kastowo, caretaker of the Soekarno Museum in Blitar, said traces of Sukarno are still very obvious in East Java because the East Javanese have a strong sense of belonging. Although the homes and other places where Sukarno frequented may no longer physically exist, the spirit of Sukarno is still felt, he said.

One example is the Gebang Palace in Blitar. Historically, Sukarno stayed in this home for only a brief period.

"Indeed, Sukarno's parents, Raden Soekemi Sosrodihardjo and Ida Ayu Nyoman Rai, lived there -- but not Sukarno," Budi said. This house, later occupied by Soekarmimi, Sukarno's elder sister, has always been associated with Bung Karno. Every June, Blitar commemorates Sukarno's birthday and Gebang Palace is the center of activities.

It is in Gebang Palace that Sukarno memorabilia is kept, such as the picture of Sukarno and his parents and elder sisters, photographs of a young Sukarno, statues and even a room containing household items originally belonging to Sukarno.

Sukarno, who was known to have nine wives, began his political activities in Surabaya and Bandung, where he made extensive networks. He established the PNI on July 4, 1927, formulated Pancasila on June 1, 1945, and along with Bung Hatta proclaimed the independence of Indonesia on August 17, 1945. He died on June 21, 1970 and was buried in Blitar.