Disappearing traces of the 'Son of Dawn'

ID Nugroho
The Jakarta Post, Tulungagung, Fri, 06/06/2008 9:47 AM

The great name of the late Sukarno, one of the two people who proclaimed Indonesia's independence, is inseparable from East Java.

This province -- where Sukarno was born, first became acquainted with political circles and was eventually buried -- holds fond memories of the former first president.

The Jakarta Post visited the province to trace a number of locations where Sukarno, dubbed the "Son of Dawn", spent his days.

At a glance, there is nothing special about the house located on Jl. Pandean IV No. 48, in Surabaya. The sitting room directly faces a four-meter-wide alley. The front wall is dull with the paint peeling off in several parts; water stains on the ceiling from a leaking roof are visible; and the color of the wooden door frames fails to match that of the window frames.

However, it is believed that this is the house in which Sukarno was born on June 6, 1901.

At least two leading biographies about Sukarno, namely Cindy Adams' Soekarno the Spokesperson of the People and Shohirin's The Son of Dawn, refer to Surabaya as the birthplace of Sukarno, who was born Koesno.

"The books were published when Sukarno was still alive and Sukarno did not deny (what was written). So, perhaps, what the books say is true," said Budi Kastowo, the caretaker of the Soekarno Museum and Library in Blitar.

Locals are rather uncertain about where exactly Sukarno was born, because he did not stay long in Surabaya. At the age of two, Koesno moved to Mojokerto with his parents.

Again, there is no exact information about Sukarno's second home. It is often said, however, that it was frequently hit by flashfloods from the Brantas River, which flows past Mojokerto.

It is very likely that the house was located on a low-lying plot of land near the river.

Koesno was often sick as a child and was left in the care of his grandfather, Raden Hardjodikromo, who lived in Tulungagung.

In his grandfather's house and third place of residence (located on Jl. Mayjend Suprapto), Koesno was given traditional Javanese medication. While Koesno was regaining his health, his grandfather was said to have received divine inspiration and soon after changed his grandson's name from Koesno to Karno, and later Soekarno.

Today, the house is not occupied. Locals around the house refer to it as the house of Eyang Hardjo. "That is the house of Eyang (Hardjo), Bung Karno's grandfather," said Joko, a local residents, adding the house had been vacant for quite some time.

"People say Eyang's family is no longer there."

Sukarno went to the Inlander School until he was 11, after which time he continued his studies at the Europe Lagere School in Mojokerto. Four years later, or in 1915, Soekarno joined the Hoogere Burger School (HBS) in Surabaya.

It was when he was in Surabaya that he became acquainted with Haji Oemar Said (HOS) Tjokroaminoto, a boarding house landlord and also the chairman of Syarikat Islam. Tjokroaminoto introduced Sukarno to discourses on nationalism and the spirit of resistance against the Dutch colonial powers.

Sukarno continued his studies at the Technische Hoogeschool, which is now the Bandung Institute of Technology, where he graduated in 1926 and began his activities in politics.

"He was an ordinary boy. Few people know he was born in Surabaya. If I'm not mistaken, he was born in Blitar, right?" said Ashari, 75, a resident of Jl. Pandean, Surabaya.

Ashari told the Post he had once heard a story about Sukarno from his late mother.

"As far as I can remember, my mother once told me a story about Bung Karno. He used to stay in Jl. Pandean along with Ibu Inggit (Sukarno's second wife)," he said.

When Sukarno stayed at the house on Jl. Pandean, Ashari said, the house in front of it was used as the secretariat of Kepanduan Bangsa Indonesia, a youth organization under the Indonesian National Party (PNI), a party that Sukarno founded. Various political activities were said to have been carried out there.

The house now belongs to Jamila, the fourth owner of the house, who lives there together with his wife and elder sister.

HOS Tjokroaminoto's boarding house, where Sukarno stayed when he went to HBS, can still be found on Jl. Peneleh, alley VII, in Surabaya. This simple house, built in the uniquely East Javanese architectural style, is now taken care of by the Surabaya municipality administration and is one of the province's heritage sites.

Budi Kastowo, caretaker of the Soekarno Museum in Blitar, said traces of Sukarno are still very obvious in East Java because the East Javanese have a strong sense of belonging. Although the homes and other places where Sukarno frequented may no longer physically exist, the spirit of Sukarno is still felt, he said.

One example is the Gebang Palace in Blitar. Historically, Sukarno stayed in this home for only a brief period.

"Indeed, Sukarno's parents, Raden Soekemi Sosrodihardjo and Ida Ayu Nyoman Rai, lived there -- but not Sukarno," Budi said. This house, later occupied by Soekarmimi, Sukarno's elder sister, has always been associated with Bung Karno. Every June, Blitar commemorates Sukarno's birthday and Gebang Palace is the center of activities.

It is in Gebang Palace that Sukarno memorabilia is kept, such as the picture of Sukarno and his parents and elder sisters, photographs of a young Sukarno, statues and even a room containing household items originally belonging to Sukarno.

Sukarno, who was known to have nine wives, began his political activities in Surabaya and Bandung, where he made extensive networks. He established the PNI on July 4, 1927, formulated Pancasila on June 1, 1945, and along with Bung Hatta proclaimed the independence of Indonesia on August 17, 1945. He died on June 21, 1970 and was buried in Blitar.

Surabaya gears up to overtake Jakarta

Surabaya, the capital of East Java province, is one city that has seen rapid growth over the last decade. Economic growth in Surabaya, the second largest Indonesian city after Jakarta, has led to the emergence of discerning families that embrace a cosmopolitan lifestyle and who appreciate a comfortable life. This may explain the thriving malls, luxury houses, apartments and hospitality businesses such as hotels, cafes, discotheques and restaurants in Surabaya. To coincide with Surabaya's 715th anniversary, The Jakarta Post Surabaya correspondent I.D. Nugroho has prepared some feature stories on this City of Heroes for our Supplement section. The articles will give you a taste of the city's business potential, its people's unique traits, places of interest and the city's nightlife. ,

ID Nugroho | Sat, 05/31/2008 12:08 PM | Supplement

Surabaya, East Java

Surabaya has been dubbed the second metropolis after Jakarta and the city has made efficient use of this to expand and develop its role as a major business center. Growth in the 715-year-old city is fast speeding up. Despite criticism, apartments, malls and hotels are springing up everywhere. Is this an effort to get ahead of Jakarta?

It looks like Jakarta will have to watch out. The capital city will soon be rivaled by Surabaya, the second largest city in Indonesia. How could it be otherwise as in Surabaya, a city of more than 2.7 million people, there seems to be a race in construction projects. New malls, apartment buildings and elite housing estates are springing up everywhere.

The business world is the main yardstick. As the population increases, Surabaya, which has declared itself a city of trade, is honing its business development strategy by setting up Central Business Districts (CBDs). There are seven CBDs spread throughout a number of areas, from Kembang Jepun, which is the oldest trade center in Surabaya, to Ngagel, an industrial area.

"The regulation cannot be rejected as the city is moving ahead toward becoming a more modern city," said deputy mayor of Surabaya, Arief Affandi, to The Jakarta Post. In a CBD, there are various centers for business activities, such as shopping centers, markets, banks and modern offices. In addition, the CBDs also collaborate with a number of independently managed markets, such as Atum, Turi, Keputran, Paben and Genteng markets.

Malls and shopping centers have also become city landmarks, such as Surabaya Plaza, Mal Galaxy, Mal Surabaya, Tunjungan Plaza, Maspion Square, Jembatan Merah Plaza and Plaza Marina. There are also Pakuwon Supermall, Trade Center Pakuwon, Sungkono Trade Center, Royal Plaza and City of Tomorrow. "The construction of other business centers is now waiting. I hope the public can take advantage of them," Arife Affandi said.

The hotel industry is also experiencing a boom. Dubbed the city of heroes, Surabaya boasts 7,261 rooms in 136 hotels of various classes, ranging from the three-star or "jasmine" class to the five-star international hotels, namely Hotel Majapahit, Hyatt Regency Surabaya, Patra Surabaya Hilton, Shangri-La, Garden Palace, Sheraton Surabaya and J.W. Marriott.

Four-star hotels are represented by Surabaya Plaza Hotel, Novotel, Somerset and Hotel Ibis. Hotel Mercure Grand Mirama also entered the scene in February 2007. Managed by Acor, this hotel is located in the former Hotel Mirama. Mercure General Manager Neil Gow said the decision to build a hotel in Surabaya was prompted by the fact that demand always exceeds the number of hotel rooms.

"This means that it is still possible for the hotel business in Surabaya to develop fast," Neil told the Post. In just over a year of operation, Hotel Mercure Grand Mirama reports over 80 percent occupancy, in fact it claims to enjoy a higher occupancy rate than other hotels of the same class.

"As far as we know, we are still leading compared with the other four-star hotels," he noted.

Although there are many star-rated hotels in Surabaya, most are still located in Central Surabaya. However, hotels continue to offer employment opportunities. The Central Bureau of Statistics of Surabaya Municipality reports that in 2006 the hotel sector in Surabaya provided work for 8,130 people.

Aside from the property business, the housing and apartment business is also enjoying an upward trend in Surabaya. A number of elite housing estates in Surabaya are seeing an increase in sales. Take, for example, Wisata Bukit, Araya Bumi Mega, Taman Dayu and Perumahan Pakuwon. Each of these housing estates have experienced a 30 percent increase in sales. The apartment business is also experiencing a similar trend.

The apartment business is flourishing, especially since there is limited land available for construction and many people still find it important to live in urban areas. "Because of these two factors, Pakuwon Group has built apartment buildings in Surabaya," Sugema Nagasakti, Promotion Manager of Pakuwon Group, told the Post. Pakuwon Group has two apartment buildings, namely Grande Water Palace and East Coast Residence.

Most of 200 apartment units in the six towers of Grande Water Palace have been sold although the price is quite steep, at about Rp 400 million, Sugema said. "About 90 percent of all the units have been sold and will be handed over to the buyers in September 2008," he added.

In view of the flourishing property market in Surabaya, leading property agency Century 21 Indonesia has opened 12 branch offices in Surabaya. Information obtained by the Jakarta Post shows that property sales in Surabaya are of the same value as sales in Greater Jakarta. It is very likely that the value of these sales will soon exceed sales in Greater Jakarta.

The lifestyle of the urbanites in Surabaya has allowed the entertainment business and international fashion brands in Surabaya to flourish. Take, for example, cafes, karaoke centers and discotheques. There is a choice of 10 upmarket cafes and they are all located in downtown Surabaya. Likewise, there are also 13 discotheques.

There is no doubt about it, Surabaya is moving fast ahead. With its vision of "Development that is Smart and Cares", Surabaya is striving to accelerate growth in the flow of goods and services at the regional and international level. This is being done by connecting the urban area of Surabaya with an integrated spatial layout system supported by adequate infrastructure, transportation and information technology. It is no wonder then that Surabaya is looking even more attractive to the business world.

Surabaya marks its 715th anniversary

ID Nugroho , The Jakarta Post , Surabaya, East Java | Sat, 05/31/2008 12:08 PM | Supplement

The history of Surabaya began when Raden Wijaya, the first king of the Majapahit Kingdom, won a battle against Chinese troops in 1293. In those days, the area was noted for its water defense base with Kali Mas as its military base. In every period, Surabaya has been a strategic area to be reckoned with.

During the colonial times, for example, Dutch, British and Japanese troops all attempted to subjugate Surabaya. That is why, perhaps, Surabaya has as its symbol the fight between Suro (a shark) and Boyo (a crocodile). Philosophically, the fight represents the indefatigable spirit of its people.

It is in Surabaya that people of various ethnic and social groups live together in harmony. The city has no history of conflict based on ethnicity, religion or race. Adhering to the blokosuto (open) culture, Surabaya residents are noted for their tolerance although,they can also be firm. It is this high level of tolerance and brotherhood that have made it difficult for the colonial powers to subjugate Surabaya.

In addition to all this, Surabaya people are known for their talent for trading. Since the 18th century, Surabaya has been home to various manufacturing enterprises. The commercial network that was built reached China, Britain, the Netherlands and Portugal. In 1870, this city was an industrial center on a par with other international port cities like Shanghai, Calcutta, Singapore and Hong Kong.

This demand from the trading world also prompted the construction of the first railway linking Surabaya and the neighboring regions of Sidoarjo, Gresik, Jombang, Kediri and Madiun. In the 19th and 20th centuries, the city developed into a service center for the estate economy.

Against the backdrop of this historical legacy, the municipal administration has decided to continue developing the city. Under the city mayor, Bambang DH, and his deputy, Arief Affandi, Surabaya aspires to be a "smart city that cares". It is this tagline that constitutes the city's spirit today.

Between 2006 - 2020, Surabaya aims to restore its former glory as a city of traders by responding to global opportunities and demand. Public support for the city administration is essential. That is why it is necessary to establish a democratic administration based on justice, transparency and accountability with the support of an integrated, competent, efficient and professional bureaucratic structure.

Accountability, which is a manifestation of responsibility toward the public, will result in a clean bureaucracy that will command respect. If this is realized, Surabaya citizens will enjoy efficient and orderly services and at the same time they will also abide by the regulations of the local administration.

In this respect, the development of cooperatives, micro, small and medium enterprises (UMKM) and cooperation between small and medium-sized businesses and large businesses supported by a business climate conducive to business development, is essential. People's welfare, particularly with respect to the poor through the provision of facilities to meet their basic needs, the organization of sidewalk vendors as well as informal businesses, cannot be ignored. In addition the city environment needs to be managed so that it is clean, green and comfortable.

Improving the quality of affordable health services along with educating the public about the importance of a healthy environment are also goals on the agenda. These efforts will be coupled with the strengthening of the local culture to develop a harmonious community life based on tolerance and high ideals. If all runs well, this ancient city will really become a new Surabaya,...

Following the tourist trail around the city

ID Nugroho , The Jakarta Post , Surabaya, East Java | Sat, 05/31/2008 12:08 PM | Supplement

Although Surabaya is not considered a tourist city, it is not difficult for people to find a change of scenery. Inside and outside the city, tourist spots, ranging from nature to religious sites, are just waiting to be visited. For those wanting to spend time out of the city, the beauty of Mount Bromo awaits.

Like residents in other major cities, the people of Surabaya view day trips as an activity that cannot be neglected. Fatigue brought about by daily routines may be relieved by surrounding oneself in natural beauty.

The problem is that Surabaya is better known as a city of trade rather than a city of tourism. But how true is this?

In Surabaya, which is known as the City of Heroes, there are many tourist spots that have distinctive characteristics. There are a variety of destinations for tourists, such as nature areas, ocean spot, religious sites and, of course, shopping centers. The terrific thing is, is that all these destinations spots are located within the city and so it is not necessary to spend much time getting to each place.

The Surabaya Zoo is one of Surabaya's top tourist sites and is one of the few zoos in Indonesia that is located downtown. Everyone who has visited Surabaya surely knows where the zoo is located. It is situated at the gateway to the city, not far from Wonokromo bus terminal. Boasting 2,806 animals of 351 species, the zoo was once ranked the most complete zoo in Southeast Asia.

Not far from the zoo, in the eastern part of the city, is Ria Kenjeran Beach. Here one can witness the early morning sun rise with Madura island as a backdrop. It is at this beach that you can witness the daily routines of the fishermen in Kenjeran. These fishermen produce traditional dishes of the local coastal people, such as grilled fish and salted fish. They also make handicrafts from sea products.

Today, efforts are being made to develop tourism related to the history of Surabaya because the city is home to a great number of old historical buildings dating back to the Dutch era, such as the Internatio Building, the Grahadi Building, Hotel Mojopahit, Bapai Pemuda and Balai Kota. Some of these buildings are still being used today.

"These buildings have been existence since I was a child, although some have been damaged. Many are still in good repair, though," said Kadaruslan, a cultural worker of Surabaya city.

Hotel Majapahit has high historical value. It was in one of the hotel's towers that the blue part of the red, white and blue Dutch flag was torn off so that the flag became the red-and-white flag of Indonesia. This incident served as a symbol of resistance of Surabaya freedom fighters, better known as Arek Suroboyo.

Artifacts kept at Mpu Tantular Museum and the Joko Dolok statue from the Singosari kingdom are also worth seeing.

Another place of interest is Ampel Mosque, which was built in the 15th century by Sunan Ampel or Raden Rahmad. Still in its original form, the mosque is still in use. The supporting wooden beams were made by Sunan Ampel and his disciples. At the rear of the mosque there is a graveyard where Sunan Ampel and his family are buried. Arabic and old European buildings surround the mosque.

St Mary the Virgin Catholic Church, Jagad Karana Hindu Tempel in Kenjeran, Hong Tiek Hian Buddhist Temple and Cheng Hoo Mosque are other popular tourist spots. Tourists find the original and unique shapes of these buildings of particular interest.

There are also various tourist spots outside the city of Surabaya. Mount Bromo in Pasuruan regency, about 100 km to the east of Surabaya, is one of the primary tourist spots. A trip to Mount Bromo takes about two hours from Surabaya, passing the Sidoarjo mudflow area.

Mount Bromo is one of the most well-known active volcanoes in Indonesia. At 2,392 meters above sea level, this mountain has cold weather and visitors are advised to take along warm clothing. Its valleys, crater and 10 sq m expanse of sand are easy to reach and therefore attract many visitors.

Climbing the stairway leading to the Bromo crater, a visitor can freely enjoy the sight of the crater with a diameter of 600-800 meters.

Sunrise is a popular draw at Mount Bromo. The sun looks beautiful as it rises, with a background of an expanse of sand, mist and the tops of Mount Bromo, Mount Batok and Mount Semeru. The life of the Tengger people of Bromo, who still use horses as their means of transportation, reflects the uniqueness of the local culture, something that is slowly disappearing in Indonesia.

The night comes alive with a roar

ID Nugroho , The Jakarta Post , Surabaya, East Java | Sat, 05/31/2008 12:07 PM | Supplement

As the sun disappears, the heartbeat of the nightlife in Surabaya begins. The bright lights lend greater festivity to the nightlife in this city. This is the time when dozens of cafes, nightclubs, karaoke centers and discotheques of various themes start to pulsate and the night comes alive with a roar.

Surabaya is always alive. Even nightfall cannot make the city, with a population of 2.7 million, stop pulsating. The heartbeat of the nightlife continues, although it is concentrated at a number of places only. The night's heartbeat is naturally the loudest at cafes, nightclubs and discotheques. And at karaoke centers, where people get together not only to sing but also to talk. In fact, karaoke centers are found in almost every entertainment area in this city.

Spending a few hours at a cafe, nightclub, discotheque or other nightspot has become part of the lifestyle of Surabaya residents. Almost every night, these places are full of activities among the bright lights, the booming sound of music and laughter. Most visitors are youths and young executives. Of Surabaya's 2.7 million people, more than 50 percent or 1.5 million people are teenagers and youths.

Adi Basko is one such person to frequent nightspots. A young executive in the publishing business, he said he has liked clubbing since he was a university student. "Every night my friends and I go clubbing," Adi Basko told The Jakarta Post.

It is not hard to find a place to "hear the night roar" in Surabaya. Almost every star-rated hotel has a cafe, nightclub or discotheque. Take, for example, the Tavern at Hotel Hyatt, Hugos at Hotel Sheraton or Vertical 6 (V6) at Hotel JW Marriott. There are also independent cafes and restaurants, such as Van Java in Taman Apsari, Colors Pub and Resto on Jl. Sumatra, Blow Fish in the Mex Building, Red Box at Pakuwon Trade Center, House of Sampoerna Caf* and Coyote at Plaza Tunjungan 6. "Every place has its loyal patrons, depending on market segmentation," Adi said.

Tavern and V-Six, for example, are where expatriates and affluent young executives hang out. The music, the dishes and the beverages served suit their tastes. Other places, such as Van Java, Colors Pub and Resto, Blow Fish, Red Box and Coyote in Plaza Tunjungan 6 are more popular among younger people. At these places, the music is louder, manifesting the dynamic life of younger people.

Tisa Nirmala, a single female executive in the communication business, frequents V6, Colors Pub and Resto. She chooses these two spots because they suit her tastes. "When there is a special event, for example taking people out, I usually choose V 6 but to relax, I prefer Colors Pub," she told the Post.

Tisa's colleagues also like going to these to clubbing spots for a night out and to wind down after a full day's work. "Our purpose is to have a night out and chill out after a hard day's work," she said. Tisa does not have a set budget for this purpose. However, when partying, Tisa, who loves Top 40 songs, may spend up to Rp 500,000 a night.

Kiki Andriani, the marketing manager of Blow Fish, said the nightlife business in Surabaya was promising. This is evident from the fact that nightspots are crowded almost every night.

"That's indeed the situation. Blow Fish and some other nightspots in Surabaya are always crowded. Each of these places has its own market segmentation," she said.

Blow Fish is mostly frequented by the upper class. Every night, hundreds of people enjoy the music played at the club and lounge. The establishment serves food and drinks. "The demand for foods and drinks, particularly alcohol, always rises. We have run out of stock several times," she said.